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There are two ways to reach kemukus Mountain. Some people drive to the
hill in Central Java, 28 km northeast of Solo, park their cars, buy a 10
ticket from a uniformed guard at the gate, and then climb up a set of
stairs —past vendors selling soft drinks, jewelry and herbal medicines—
to the tomb of a revered Muslim prince. There they pay their respects,
and some adjourn to a room beside the tomb to pray further.
Most people, though, come by boat across an artificial lake created by the Kedungombo dam. They climb up a different set of stairs, past small concrete blockhouses that have been divided into spartan rooms, some separated by a sheet. At an outdoor well they pour water over themselves, then wait in line with flowers and incense to kneel before a fire and be blessed by the local dukun, or shaman. They walk further up the hill —past more blockhouses, wandering dangdut bands, masseurs, gambling tables, a snake charmer and hundreds, perhaps thousands, of other people. They too pay their respects at the tomb of Prince Samodra. Then, after midnight on the Friday pon, which falls every 35 days according to the Javanese calendar, they retire to those tiny, harsh rooms in those grim blockhouses— and they all have sex.
Most people, though, come by boat across an artificial lake created by the Kedungombo dam. They climb up a different set of stairs, past small concrete blockhouses that have been divided into spartan rooms, some separated by a sheet. At an outdoor well they pour water over themselves, then wait in line with flowers and incense to kneel before a fire and be blessed by the local dukun, or shaman. They walk further up the hill —past more blockhouses, wandering dangdut bands, masseurs, gambling tables, a snake charmer and hundreds, perhaps thousands, of other people. They too pay their respects at the tomb of Prince Samodra. Then, after midnight on the Friday pon, which falls every 35 days according to the Javanese calendar, they retire to those tiny, harsh rooms in those grim blockhouses— and they all have sex.
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